Mystery Snails
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Snails in the
aquarium, not everyone’s cup of tea - they are a pest clogging the
filters etc. but this is not always the case. Enter the world of the mystery
snails and you will be amazed with the variety of different coloured shells (golds, reds, browns, blues, striped), their strange antics when they are coming up for air is fascinating to watch, keepers soon fall in love with them.
So what are mystery snails?
There is a lot of debate as to the actual classification of these creatures, they can have various different names – apple
snails, ivory
snails, Inca
snail, day & night
snails, the list goes on but the most common variety sold on the market are usually classified as being Pomacea Bridgessii and these all belong to the family of Ampullariidae (sometimes referred to as Pilidae) which contains over a hundred different members.
Far from being a pest these
snails can be a bonus to your
tank as they will clear up any rotting vegetation from your
plants, plus any surplus
food from the
substrate, and they will earn their keep by clearing some
algae from the glass (apart from hair
algae).
My own experience with these creatures has been with the Golden Apple variety and believe it or not after a while I could recognize each one by its behavioral patterns, being mostly sluggish in the day but coming into their own from evening onwards.
There is a general rule for the amount of
snails per
tank usually 1 per 2.5 gallons of
water (dependant on the
filtration and aeration provided in the set up) but be warned, a tight fitting lid is a must as they can and will leave the
water at times so any gaps where pipe work enters through the lid should be sealed and small ventilation holes provided. They can produce a lot of waste so under stocking would be better than vice versa.
Some keepers have kept these in coldwater setups but they much prefer the warmer
water provided with a tropical
tank. Normally they are sold in the
pet shops at about 1 inch or under in size but each individual can grow to a size of 2.5 inches if kept in optimum conditions. There is one species of theses
snails (Pomacea maculata sometimes referred to as Ampullarius gigas) that can grow to an astounding 6 inches.
Average lifespan if kept healthy & well fed is normally about 2 years.
Specific Needs:
pH levels need to be kept to at least 6.5 -7 as below this can cause an erosion of the shell and stunted growth, however there are also on the market several calcium supplements that will aid shell development. I did use these on a regular basis & it seemed to keep them happy although I have no scientific proof to hand that it was vital to their needs.
The
water should be well aerated with an
air stone or an air driven sponge
filter but this is where these
snails can do their party piece! If there is insufficient oxygen in the
water they have a branchial respiration system as well as possessing a gill. They will head towards the surface of the
water and extend a siphon out to take in external oxygen – a truly amazing sight! It has been known for one of these tubes to extend anything up to 4 inches. This system of breathing is believed to have evolved to create a defense from predatory birds grabbing them once they leave the safety of the
water. How true this is I cannot say but it seems to make sense to me.
Never fill your
tank completely; with their need for plenty of oxygen at least leave a 2 inch gap from the top of the
tank to the
water level inside.
Last but not least keep your
water healthy & stable, as they produce a lot of waste, ample
filtration should be provided.
As with all invertebrates they will not tolerate any form of copper based
medication so if kept in a
community tank either remove before treating the
tank or quarantine the infected
fish to treat.
Do not keep them with
tank mates likely to harass them.
Feeding:
These
snails will eat
algae, rotting
plant matter, leftover
fish food i.e. flake or pellet. I used to give mine Hikari
algae wafers and the occasional treat of
brine shrimp pellets. They can also be fed spinach, blanched greens. However be warned if they are kept in the
community tank and
food is scarce they will attack healthy
plant life so keep them well fed.
Breeding:
Unlike most
snails these are not hermaphroditic (asexual), you will need at least 1 male and 1 female for breeding success. The male has a penal tube similar to its breathing siphon tube that is used purely for this purpose. When they pair up the male will insert the tube under the females shell and enter her body. It is quite often that you will see the female carrying the male about on the back of her shell. Eggs are normally laid at night out of the
water and in a clutch averaging anywhere from 200-600 eggs at a time.
In my breeding setup I used a 10 gallon
tank, filling it up halfway.
For aeration,
filtration a double sponge
filter was added and a temp of 26°C was set. I placed the
tank in a dimly lit place adding a watertight lid to prevent any escapees.
Eggs once laid would be expected to hatch out after 2 weeks sometimes 3 weeks but the young couldn’t be easier to
feed, basically they were given the same
diet as the adults.
As a matter of habit I doubled the
water changes to reduce any risk of mortalities but these were normally very few, and to be honest, a newly hatched
snail is not the easiest thing to find if it does not survive.
I hope this
article has convinced you of the benefit of keeping this creature-trust me, you will not be disappointed.
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