HOW TO BUILD A POND
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A major project that many people undertake nowadays is to create a
pond in their garden. One of the key aspects to this is to draw up a plan initially. Take into consideration whether the
pond will be used for
goldfish only, or for koi.
Look around your garden to find the best situation, remember too much sunlight on your
pond can cause outbreaks of
algae, and observe the site over the day to find out the position of the sun at different times. Take into consideration how big you want the
pond to be, are there small children that will be in the area, if so think safety into your
design.
Work out a budget remembering to allow for all the extra equipment that you will need i.e.
filters,
lighting, and fountains.
If designing a square or rectangular
pond peg out the corners, then mark out the area with line. If your
design involves an irregular shape then lay out a hosepipe or use marker paint for the outline, stand back to make sure that it will all fit in with your garden, and then adjust as necessary.
Decide which
liner you are going to use, preformed, butyl
liner or actually building the
pond up with breeze blocks (cinder blocks).
If using a preformed
liner, dig out the area to match the size of the
pond. Allow extra depth and width for the underlay. When the area has been excavated line it with either sand or an old carpet, this will protect your
pond from any sharp
rocks etc, plus it will support the
pond and prevent it from twisting when the weight of the
water is inside it.
Place the pre form into the hole and slowly
start adding
water, making sure it is perfectly level. As the
pond slowly fills, keep adding sand or padding around the sides to make sure the
pond fits nice and snug, remember if there are any shelves in it , to make sure that they are supported underneath.
When the
pond is full do a final check to make sure it is level, and that is your
pond ready for use.
Using a butyl
liner is a little more complicated, but with preparation is quite in the reach for anyone to do. The first thing to do is measure up for the amount of
liner you will need. There is a simple equation for this. To work it out measure the length plus twice the depth plus 2 feet. Measure the width plus twice the depth plus 2 feet. This will give you the total length x the total width. The extra added is to allow for some
liner to be buried on the edges to make it all tidy. As with the pre formed line the excavated hole with sand or underlay for protection of the
liner. Now spread the
liner over the top of the hole and weigh the edges down with large stones or bricks.
Start to fill the
pond slowly, allowing the
liner to sink into position, the slower this is done the tidier it will look when finished.
Keep tucking the
liner into the corners with neat folds and make sure that the
liner is tucked neatly into any shelving that you have created.
The edges of the
liner can be covered with slabs, a rockery using some of the soil that you excavated, or even lay turf up to the edge if the
pond is surrounded by a lawn area.
It is crucial that the
water volume of the
pond is known ready for when you need to add any treatments or additives, surprise, surprise there is an equation for this as well. If you multiply the width x length x depth x 6.25, this will give you the
volume in U.K. gallons. So if your
pond is 10 foot x 8 foot x 4 foot depth the
volume is 10 x 8 x 4 x 6.25=2000 U.K. Gallons.
When I created my
pond I decided to build mine with breeze blocks (cinder blocks) and then render the sides. As there were children about I decided to dig down 2 feet, and then raise the sides 2 feet above the ground, giving me a depth of 4 feet in total. I needed the 4 foot depth as I intended to keep Koi in the
pond, any less than that and the
fish would not have been happy.
The hole was excavated, allowing an extra foot on the width and length to give me room for the block laying. On the base I needed at least 6 inches thickness due to the weight of the
water. To overcome this I laid some heavy duty paving slabs on the bottom, then I covered them with 3 inches of concrete which was then smoothed.
This also served as the foundation for the building work with the blocks. These were then laid to the correct height leaving 2 holes in the sides for the outlet pipes from the
filter system. Once the pipes were in place the holes were sealed with concrete as well, now after leaving the building work for 2 days everything was ready for the cement rendering.
In this case I was lucky enough to have done this in the past when I worked as a plasterer but if you are not sure how to do this get a professional in to do it for you.
Fibreglass was mixed in with the render to give it extra strength and then it was applied.
To waterproof the
pond I invested in purpose made
pond paint. 2 coats of clear were applied, followed by 2 coats of the coloured, which in my case was a dark green. For the block work that was raised above the surface, I simply laid decorative brickwork on the outside, covering over the top with coping stones to give a neat finish. All in all this took me 4 months to build so if you are not DIY minded then using a standard
liner might be more appropriate for you.
If you are planning to do this yourself be creative, you will find it is not as difficult as you think, forward planning is the key.
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How to build a pond
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