Aquarium Cycling
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The key aspect of
fish keeping has to be
cycling your
aquarium ready for the arrival of your first
fish. If you have researched you will know that the
water parameters need to be perfect for your
fish and that the
filters need to be capable of handling the bio-load created by the
fish expelling their waste into the
aquarium and from rotting
plants decaying. It is crucial that your
water is tested on a regular basis so investing in a quality testing kit is a good investment especially in the early days of your
aquarium running. Nowadays most keepers will perform the
aquarium cycling without using hardy
fish to build up the
filters but some still do so both methods will be explained in this
article.
Aquarium cycling with fish
This method is used for keepers who are adding
fish to their
aquariums straight away, the
fish used must be very hardy as sensitive
fish will suffer during this
cycling method. If possible try to get hold of some
filter media from an established
aquarium and add it to your
filter, this will kick off the
cycling process straight away. If you cannot get any
media it will mean that the
aquarium cycling process will take longer, anything up to 6 weeks. Once the hardy
fish are added to the
tank you will
start to get
ammonia readings with your test kit. These readings will continue to rise as the
bacteria in the
filter are still colonising and until the colony is large enough they will not be able to cope. Once the
ammonia has peaked the
ammonia results will
start to drop and the readings of
nitrites in the
water will
start to rise. This will mean that the
bacteria which convert the
ammonia into
nitrites have now colonised to a large enough colony to deal with the first part of the
aquarium cycling.
Eventually the readings for
nitrites will peak and drop to 0, this means that the beneficial
bacteria are now converting the
nitrites into
nitrates, these are less toxic than
ammonia and
nitrites so now you are well on the way to your
aquarium cycle being completed. The only way to remove
nitrates is to perform regular
water changes so now is the time to
start this, readings of below 40 for
nitrates means that the
aquarium is cycled and you will now need to keep performing your
water changes to keep the
nitrates at a constant level.
Key points to remember with this method of cycling are:-
- Test your water daily, you need to know exactly how the cycle is doing.
- Always check your fish for any signs of stress, as mentioned above, only hardy fish should be used with this method of aquarium cycling.
- When you add more fish to the aquarium, keep testing the water and don’t add any more fish until the readings are back to normal.
- You may experience algal blooms during the cycling process especially when cycling with fish in the tank, this is normal and the blooms should disappear once the cycling is complete.
Aquarium cycling-the fishless method
This is the preferred method on most
fish keepers nowadays, the
aquarium can be cycled without placing any possible
stress on
fish and will often provide stronger bacterial colonies in the
aquarium filters. It can be achieved by three different methods but the results will always be the same. Commercial
bacteria cultures can be used, these are simply added to the
aquarium following the instructions on the bottle, these work for some keepers bot some are biased against them. The second method is to add some
fish food to the
aquarium and allow it to decay thus producing
ammonia, this method does work but controlling the
ammonia levels in the
aquarium is a bit hit and miss. I much prefer using pure
ammonia, you know exactly how much is being added to the
aquarium and you can control the levels to suit the stage of the
aquarium cycle. This is the method I will explain below:-
The
ammonia used must be pure, there are perfumed
ammonia bottles for sale, these will not be suitable for the
aquarium as they will add harmful toxins to the
water that will remain after the cycle has been completed. Using the pure
ammonia add a few drops at a time, with the first dose you will have to repeatedly test the
water with a suitable testing kit until you reach an
ammonia level of 4-6 ppm. Do not test the
water as soon as you have added the
ammonia, stir the
water and test after an hour. Count how many drops it took to reach the required level, this will help you work out how much
ammonia is needed with each dosing. Repeat this process every day until the
ammonia readings
start dropping when you are still adding the same dosage, this means that the
ammonia has peaked and
bacteria are now converting this to
nitrites. Now is the time to
start testing for these with your testing kit.
After a few days of repeatedly dosing your
tank the
nitrites should also
start to drop,
nitrates are now in the
aquarium water, test for
nitrates to check on this. Once
nitrates are in the
water your
aquarium cycle is nearly complete. The
nitrites will drop to zero and the
nitrates can be removed by regular
water changes. Now your
filters are ready for
fish to be added to the
tank!
There are a couple of points to remember using either method of cycling your aquarium:-
- Cycling your tank can take up to 6 weeks, do not try to rush this process, let it run its own course and your fish should have no problems when placed into the tank.
- During the cycling process do not perform any water changes until the nitrites show a reading of zero, doing water changes during the cycling process will mean that the cycle will take longer to complete.
- Keep a log of your test results, this way it will become more obvious when the ammonia or nitrites have peaked, this is a lot easier than trying to remember the test reading results in your head.
Additional info supplied by
www.fishtankforum.co.uk
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Aquarium Cycling
has been viewed times since June 30, 2009.
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