<?xml version="1.0" encoding="windows-1250"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Aqua-Fish.Net</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net</link><description>Tropical freshwater aquarium fish and plants database with articles about aquarium hobby.</description><language>en</language><item><title>About Kribensis</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=602</link><description>About Kribensis
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

Kribensis or Pelvicachromis pulcher are of the family Cichlidae more commonly referred to as cichlids. They are native to the waters of West Africa, primarily found in Nigeria. They can be found in anywhere from free flowing to brakish water. Kribensis are also referred to as dwarf African cichlids, purple cichlids, and kribs an abbreviation of their species name.

Kribs are very popular among freshwater aquarists because of their almost saltwater quality coloration.

Unlike most African cichlids, kribs have a temperament conducive to community living. They will adapt better to a community tank if given plenty of plants, rocks and hollow aquarium decorations to hide in.

Kribs thrive in soft to medium hard water with a pH level between 6.5-7.0 and a temperature range of 75-82°. They are a medium sized fish reaching three to four inches in length as adults and have an average life spa of five years.

Kribensis are omnivores. They eat worms, insects, small crustaceans and plants in their natural habitat. In captivity they fare just fine on common variety tropical fish flakes.

Distiguishing males from females is easy. The males are larger than the females. Unlike most tropical fish, it is the female who has the more vibrant color palette.

Breeding Kribensis
Feeding them a diet high in protein such as brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms will help induce the spawning cycle. Privacy is essential to spawning. Kribs will seek out caves or hollow aquarium decor to spawn in.

The eggs will be deposited on the roof of their mating chamber. Spawning is complete when the male leave the spawning chamber. Sometimes males will become aggressive toward the female after spawning takes place. If this happens the male should be removed from the tank. If it does not he may be left with the female.

The female will stay in the chamber until the eggs hatch. This will occur in 36-48 hours. It is not uncommon for both adults to guard over the eggs until they hatch.

In 3-4 days the fry will be free swimming. Both parents will demonstrate parental instincts toward their newly hatched offspring. They will herd the brood around the tank keeping a watchful eye over them. There are rare occasions when adult kribs have been reported to eat the fry once they are free swimming. This is not common. You can play it safe by removing the adults if you choose.

A report issued by Barlow in the year 2000 stated that fry raised in an acidic environment will be mostly male. A neutral or slightly alkaline content will result in a heavier female population.

Free swimming fry can be fed liquid fry food available at most fish stores. A suitable alternative to store bought food is powdered eggs. Add it sparingly to avoid fouling the water. Fry are small. They don’t eat much.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>Marbled Hatchetfish</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=601</link><description>Marbled Hatchetfish
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

Marbled hatchetfish or Carnegiella strigata are a member of the family Gasteropelecidae. They are endemic to the Panama and most of South America.

The hatchetfish derives its name from its peculiarly shaped body. Hatchetfish have an enormously enlarged sternal region. They are a smaller variety of fish reaching only about two inches long when fully grown. They have an average life expectancy of five years.

Hatchetfish prefer subdued lighting. Hatchets are surface dwellers. Most of their time is spent near the surface of the aquarium. They take readily to a heavily planted terrain. They also have an affinity for floating plants. Hornwort is a good choice if you intend to keep hatchetfish.

Beware: hatchet fish are accomplished jumpers. In nature they often jump out of the water to escape predators. They are generally considered the only true flying-fish. Hatchets have extraordinarily powerful pectoral fins. The muscles attached to these fins accounts for &amp;amp;#188; of their entire body weight. They actually flap their pectoral fins to aid in their flight. The rapid beating of these fins allows them to lift their bodies half way out of the water and glide along the surface. There have been reported cases of them actually becoming airborne for short distances. Quite understandably, they should only be kept in a lidded aquarium.

Hatchetfish have a docile nature. They are good community fish provided they are surrounded by species of similar temperament. You also want to avoid housing them with fish that are large enough to consider them the perfect lunch.

Hatchets are shoaling fish. Nature didn’t intend for them to live a solitary existence. It is not uncommon for them to parish without another member of their own species. A group of 6 or 8 is ideal. Given there size, this shouldn’t present a problem even for smaller aquarium owners.

The Amazon River is slightly acidic. pH levels generally run around 6.8. The river ranges in temperatures from 76-82°. Hatchetfish will thrive under these conditions.

Hatchetfish are omnivores. In nature their diet consists primarily of small insects, insect larvae and plant matter. In captivity they are not picky. A general purpose tropical fish food will suffice.

Males are more colorful than the females and typically have more markings on their bodies.

Breeding Hatchetfish
Hatchetfish are egg layers. They will spawn in an aquarium providing there are plenty of plants. Spawning usually occurs under the camouflage of these plants.

Once released, the eggs will adhere to the plants. The fry will hatch in about 24 hours. They will be free swimming in four to five days.

The fry are particularly small. They should be fed infusoria or a similar liquid fry food formulated for egg laying fish. When they grow a little larger their diet can be switched to newly hatched brine shrimp. Or for the sake of convenience, they can be fed small amounts of powdered eggs. In about a week you can start feeding them finely crushed fish flakes.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>Kuhli Loaches</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=600</link><description>Kuhli Loaches
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

The kuhli loach or Pangio kuhli or Acanthophthalmus kuhli are members of  the family Cobitidae. They are native to Indonesia. They can be found in Singapore, Malaysia, Borneo, and Java. 

Kuhli loaches have elongated eel-like, scale-less bodies. They commonly have alternating light and dark color bands circling the length of their bodies. The combination of shape and color bands make them resemble a snake more than a fish. They slither along the bottom of an aquarium much like a snake or an eel would. They are definitely one of the more interesting additions you can make to your aquarium. 

The Kuhli loach is a bottom dwelling scavenger fish. Scavenger fish can always be distinguished from other fish by their downward facing mouth with the protruding barbles on either side. Barbles are tentacle-like organ that contain taste buds. They serve the duel purpose of helping the scavenger find food and to help him feel his way along the bottom of a riverbed in murky water or at night. 

Kuhli loaches are nocturnal. They scavenge at night and spend most of their day hiding under plants and rocks. They are also burrowers. They often burrow into the substrate to hide or rest. Sand works best if you are planning on raising kuhli loaches. You definitely want rounded gravel if sand for some reason is not an option. Sharp edges can damage their barbels. If you use a gravel siphon to help keep your tank clean remember that kuhli are burrowers. Take a head count. You don’t want to injure one. 

Kuhli loaches, like all bottom dwellers, make a wise addition to a community tank. Scavengers are mild mannered. And they help keep uneaten food particles from creating harmful bacteriological build up in the water. Kuhlis take readily to heavily planed tanks and have an affinity toward aquarium decorations with openings. They seem to take comfort in knowing there is a cave to retreat to. It also makes a great place for them to hangout in during the day. 

Kuhlis are highly social creatures. They like to congregate with members of their own species. Purchasing a single Kuhli for your tank would not only be an injustice to the animal, it would also deprive you as an aquarium owner the pleasure of watching them function as a group. 

Kuhlis are rather tolerant of their surrounding. They prefer slightly acidic water (pH 6.7-7.0) with a temperature range between 75-86°F. Kuhlis grow to 3-4 inches as adults and can live up to 10 years. Females have fuller bodies that the males.

Kuhlis are omnivores. They should be fed at night with the aquarium lights off. Sinking wafers or heavier food matter will insure they get plenty to eat. 

Kuhlis are egg layers. They they rarely breed  in captivity. No one seems to know what conditions are most likely to induce a kuhli to spawn. Having a group of kuhli with an abundance of hiding places tends to help them feel comfortable enough with their surroundings to reproduce. Kuhli loaches have been reported to breed underneath under gravel filters.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>Neon tetras</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=599</link><description>Neon tetras
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

Neon tetras or Paracheirodon innesi are members of the family Characidae. Characidae are commonly referred to as Characins. Neons are natives to southeastern Columbia, eastern Peru, and western Brazil, including the tributaries of Solimoes. They can be found in black water or clear water streams.

Neons and cardinal tetras look very similar in appearance. Put them in the same aquarium together and most people wouldn’t be aware they are two different species. Both have metallic neon blue upper bodies and a brilliant red stripe in the center of their bodies. This stripe is found mid-body running to back the tail in neons. The stripe runs the entire length of a cardinal’s body.

Both neons and cardinals are a favorite among the freshwater aquarist who prefers smaller aquarium set ups because of their intense color palette. They really brighten up a desktop aquarium.

Neon tetras make good community fish as long as the other members of the community are all smaller varieties. Neons are slender bodied fish that only reach 1.5 inches fully grown. A large adult fish can swallow one whole as a snack. They tend to be a shy species so give them with plenty of plants and aquarium décor to hide in. This will also provide sanctuary from more aggressive fish.

Water in South America is slightly acidic, around pH 6.8. Water temperature ranges from70-79°F. Your neons will thrive in similar conditions.

Neons are mid-tank swimmers. They are shoaling fish. Shoaling fish do not cope well when isolated from other members of their own species. Many will not survive in solitude. It is advisable to have at least four neons in your aquarium.

Neons are omnivores. They are perfectly cable of surviving on common tropical fish flakes.

Males and females look pretty much the same. The female’s body tends to be a little fuller. This is more apparent when she is carrying eggs.

Breeding Neon Tetras
Neons are egg layers. They will spawn in captivity. Feeding them a diet high in protein will help initiate the spawning cycle. Brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms will help achieve the desired results. Neons will not breed in hard, alkaline water. Slightly acidic water between pH 6.0-6.2 is conducive to spawning.

If you are unable to sex your neons, place the entire group in a properly prepare breeding tank. Water filtered through peat or a small layer added to the substrate will simulate optimum breeding conditions. Make sure there are no chemical additives or fertilizers on the peat.

The breeding tank should have an abundance of floating plants. Hornwort will work just fine. Keep the breeding tank in a dimly lit room.

Neon tetras will scatter their eggs. Once spawning is complete all the adults should be promptly removed from the tank. Egg layers are known to feast on their un-hatched eggs.

Fry will hatch in about 24 hours. They will be free swimming in a couple of days. Once they are free swimming they, can be fed infusoria or some other liquid fry food formulated for egg layers. When they get a little bigger switch their diet to newly hatched brine shrimp, powdered fry food or powdered eggs.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>About Goldfish</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=598</link><description>About Goldfish
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

The goldfish or Carassius auratus is a genetic mutation of the Crucian Carp (Carassius Carassius). Goldfish were originally a drab olive color. The reddish-orange color was a result of selective breeding in china over a thousand years ago. 

The Chinese have bred goldfish since as far back as the Sung Era, approximately 1000 A.D. Goldfish were the first historically document fish to be domesticated. The modern goldfish was exported to Japan and Korea in 1500 A.D. and made its way to Europe in the early 1600s. It was first introduced to the United States in 1876 and achieved notoriety at the World’s Fair in Chicago in 1893. The goldfish is one of the most commonly kept fish among freshwater aquarium enthusiast and pond owners throughout the world. 

Selective breeding has produced several varieties of modern goldfish including the Ranchu, Celestial, Bubbleye, Comet, Shubunkin and Pearlscal. They come in an assortment of colors including red, orange, white black and calico. Goldfish have been reported to live up to 43 years. 

Depending on its specific variety, goldfish can reach an adult length of up to thirteen inches. They are extremely adaptable fish. They can tolerate temperatures anywhere from 50-86 °F. It is their ability to survive in such a wide temperature range that led to them being raised in fishbowls. 

Fishbowls are not suitable environments for goldfish. They need properly aerated adequately filtered water in order to thrive, just like any other fish. 

Think of their potential adult size before deciding to add goldfish to your community tank. They need plenty of room to swim and grow or their growth can be stunted. They are acceptable community dwellers. They do have a tendency to pick on smaller fish. 

Goldfish will eat absolutely anything you feed them. Although, I have never tried peanut butter &amp;amp; jelly sandwiches. 

Breeding Goldfish
Male and female goldfish have identical coloration. The Females are generally wider and have fuller bodies than males. Males have small bumps on their gills called tubercles. The tubercles turn white when the male is ready to breed. 

Gold fish can be conditioned to spawn. Start by feeding them a high protein diet such as brine shrimp, tubifex or bloodworms. Keep the breeding tank between 65-75 °F. 

Goldfish scatter their eggs. All egg scatterers will eat their un-hatched eggs. Placing a layer of marbles on the aquarium floor will prevent this from happening. You still want to remove the adults from the breeding tank after spawning has taken place. 

The eggs will normally turn a shade of yellow. Goldfish eggs are prone to fungus growth. Remove any infested eggs from the tank to prevent spreading. The eggs will hatch in about a week. You can expedite the process by raising the water temperature. 

Goldfish fry hatch with their yoke sac still attached. This is normal. No need to be concerned. Newly hatched fry can be fed liquid fry food or powdered eggs. In a few days they can graduate to newly hatched brine shrimp and then finely crushed tropical fish flakes.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>About Guppies</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=597</link><description>About Guppies
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

Guppies or Poecilia reticulate belong to the family Poecilidae. They are some of the most colorfully decorated freshwater fish available on the market. Robert John Lechmere is accredited with &amp;quot;discovering&amp;quot; this tiny fish in Trinidad in 1866. Guppies are native to Barbados, Brazil, Guyana, Netherlands Antilles, Trinidad, the U.S. Virgin Islands and Venezuela. 

Just like goldfish and betta fish, guppies have been selectively bred to increase their coloration and exaggerated their dorsal fins. There are guppy societies devoted to breeding the next generation of show guppies. Some of these show class guppies can fetch a rather high price. The more generic fancy guppies found in fish stores are quite stunning in appearance and not that expensive. 

Guppies are docile fish and make the perfect addition to community tanks. To insure their safety only keep them with other mild mannered fish and avoid mixing them with larger varieties who will view them as food. 

The guppy thrives in neutral water with a temperature range between 72-83 °F. 

Guppies are omnivores. They can survive just fine on common tropical fish flakes. 

Adult males only grow to about 1.2 inches in length. The females can easily reach twice that length. Even with their dramatic difference in size, males have been known to bully the females. To keep domestic violence down to a minimum it is best to have two or three females for every male. Providing plants for the females to hide in is also a good idea. 


Breeding Guppies
Guppies are among the easiest freshwater fish to spawn. Unlike most fish, guppies engage in internal fertilization. The anal fin of the male is used to inseminate the female. Once inseminated, the female stores sperm in her body for several months. She can produce multiple broods without the need for further fertilization. 

Once impregnated, the female will develop a dark spot on her abdomen and the abdomen will start to swell. Guppies are live bearing fish. The fry will emerge from the mother fully developed. The fry emerge colorless. They will start to develop color in a few weeks. 

Adult guppies will eat the newly hatched fry. The best way to avoid this is with a breeding trap. Breeding traps are inexpensive and readily available at fish stores. Breeding traps are transparent plastic containers comprised of two compartments. Place the impregnated female in the top compartment. As the female gives birth the fry drop through to the bottom compartment. After the female is done spawning remove her from the trap. The plastic piece that separates the trap into two compartments can then be removed to give the fry more room to maneuver. The fry can be kept in the trap while they are young. But remember that they are in an isolated compartment for their own protection. Replace part of the water with aquarium water regularly to keep it fresh. 

Guppy fry can be fed newly hatched brine shrimp, or finely crushed dry food. Fry food specially formulated for live bearing fish is available at most fish stores.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-15</dc:date></item><item><title>Coydoras CatFish</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=596</link><description>Coydoras CatFish
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

The Corydoras catfish is a member of the family Callichthyidae. They are the sole genus in the tribe Corydoradini. There are several different species of Corydoras. They all share similar traits such as body size, shape and behavioral habits. The distinguishing feature between the various species is their color palette, some of which are quite striking. 

Catfish are bottom dwelling scavengers. Scavenger fish generally have two traits in common. Their mouths are usually pointed downward. And the mouth has barbels on either side. A barbell is a tentacle-like organ that contains taste buds. They are used to find food and to feel their way around on riverbed floors in the wild. The Corydoras catfish has two barbells, one on either side of its mouth. 

Corydoras catfish are often referred to as armored catfish. This is because they have two rows of bony plates on each side of their body. 

Unlike most scavenger fish, the Corydoras catfish is not strictly a bottom dweller. The Corydoras is part of the Anabantoidei suborder. This means that although they do have gills, they require both atmospheric and dissolved oxygen in order to survive. Anabantoids or labyrinth fishes have a lung-like organ that allows them to consume airborne oxygen. The Corydoras catfish will frequently rise to the surface of the water to gulp in needed air. 

The Corydoras catfish is a relatively small frershwater fish. When fully grown, they only reach a size of between two to three inches. The dwarf corydoras or Corydoras pygmaeus is even smaller, reaching only about one inch in length. 

Corydoras catfish make great additions to community fish tanks. They have a docile temperament. And they do a great job of cleaning up food particles from aquarium substrate to help in the prevention of harmful bacteriological build up. 

Although Corydoras are primarily bottom dwellers, they are shoaling fish. They tend to congregate together in aquariums. They even search for food and rest together. It is not at all uncommon to see one catfish resting his head on the body of another catfish. The catfish do not necessarily even have to be the same species as long as they are of the genus Corydoras. Because of their social nature, you should add at least two or three to your tank. Corydoras are not meant to live a solitary existence. 

Corydoras are omnivores. They will eat just about anything they come across on the aquarium floor. Sinking foods work best to insure your Corydoras get their required food allotment. Unlike most bottom dwellers, Corydoras have been know to rise to the surface to eat foods such as freeze-dried worms. This may be because they need to periodically rise to the surface to take in atmospheric oxygen. 

Corydoras are native to the rivers and streams of South America. They thrive in neutral water (pH of 7.0) in temperatures between 70-79 degrees Fahrenheit. 

You want to use sand or rounded gravel as a substrate when keeping Corydoras to help prevent them from damaging their barbels. 

It is not easy to distinguish between males and females. Generally the females’ bodies are a little wider than that of the males. 

Breeding Corydoras Catfish
The Corydoras have some of the most peculiar mating habits found among freshwater fish. They spawn in groups of three (1 female to 2 males), usually assuming a T position. The female places her mouth against the male’s genital opening and swallows some sperm. The sperm passes through her body rapidly and out onto the eggs she has just released. The female then carries the eggs with her ventral fin to a flat surface in the breeding tank and sticks them there until they hatch. 

After spawning has occurred, the adult should be removed from the breeding tank. The fry will hatch in a few days. 

Fry can be fed liquid fish fry food. When they get a little older their diet can be changed to newly hatched brine shrimp and then finely crushed fish flakes.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-14</dc:date></item><item><title>About Cherry Barbs</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=595</link><description>About Cherry Barbs
The cherry barb or Puntius titteya is a small, colorful freshwater fish named for its red color palette. The barb is a member of family Cyprinidae generally referred to as carp. Cherry barbs only reach one and three quarters to two inches fully grown. 

Cherry barbs are elongated fish. Typically, the upper part of their bodies leans toward a greenish shade with a slight sheen. A racing stripe that varies from a brownish to a bluish black runs from the tip of their snouts down the entire length of their bodies. Above the stripe is an iridescent band that is generally gold at the front part of their bodies and fades toward blue or green towards the tail. The males are redder than the females. But they do not develop the bright, cherry red coloration they are named for until they are about to mate. The cherry color is not found among the females of the species. Females are lighter in color and have yellow fins. The female’s body tends to be a lot plumper than the males. 

Cherry barbs make good community tank fish provided they are housed with fish that are not large enough to view them as a tasty snack. They are shoaling fish that take readily to heavily planted aquariums. Since they travel in schools in their natural habitat, it is advisable to add multiple barbs to your fish tank rather than a single fish. While cherry barbs do enjoy the company of their own species, they do not congregate as tightly as most barbs or tetras. It is, in fact, not uncommon to see a single barb venture away from the pack. 

They are originally from Sri Lanka. Lake Sir Lanka is an island country in southern Asia located off the southern coast of India. Cherry barbs prefer soft, slightly acidic water with a temperature variance between 72-79 °F. 

Cherry barbs are omnivores. They can be feed common tropical fish flakes as their primary diet. 

Breeding Cherry Barbs
Cherry barbs breed in captivity. This is a good thing. Their numbers have decreased dramatically in Sri Lanka. 

Feeding barbs frozen or live meaty foods such as brine shrimp will increase the likelihood of breeding. The male, as mentioned earlier, will develop a bright cherry color when ready to breed. 

Once the male displays his spawning colors, the barbs should be placed in a breeding tank. Barbs scatter their eggs. Like most egg scattering fish, cherry barbs will eat their un-hatched eggs. A good breeding trick is to place marbles in the bottom of the breeding tank. The eggs will slip down in between the marbles and prevent the parents from being able to get at them. After they spawn, the adult barbs should be removed from the breeding tank. 

The fry will hatch in about 24 hours. The fry can be feed liquid fish fry food developed for egg laying fish. In a couple of days switch their diet to newly hatched brine shrimp or small amounts of powdered eggs. When they reach a week or two in age you can feed them finely crushed tropical fish flakes.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-14</dc:date></item><item><title>Black Skirt Tetra</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=594</link><description>Black Skirt Tetra
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

The black skirt tetra’s scientific name is Gymnocorymbus ternetzi. All tetras belong to the family Characidae more commonly know as Characid. Black skirts are also commonly referred to as black tetras or black widow tetras. 

The black skirt can be recognized by its characteristic black “skirt”. There is also an albino version or white skirt tetra that is commonly available commercially. These are variations that occur naturally in the wild. White Skirt tetras are often dipped in pastel colors and marketed as fruit tetras. This dying process is counterproductive to the fish’s health. They are much more prone toward illness and have a greatly reduced life span. White skirt tetras have also been made to change color by being fed dyed foods. These tetras are generally healthy and will revert to their natural pigmentation once they start ingesting unaltered food. 

The black skirt tetra will reach its adult size of about 2.5 inches when it reaches about one year of age. Black skirts display their strongest coloration when young. As the fish grows older, the black skirt tetra will become duller and fade to a silvery gray. They have an average life expectancy of around five years. 

Tetras have a docile nature. They function well in community fish tanks as long as none of the other members of the community are overly aggressive. The tetras species are shoaling fish. They swim in groups. Therefore it is a good idea to add multiple tetras to your community tank. Four to six is ideal. 

The black skirt tetra is indigenous to South America. They inhabit subtropical river basins in Bolivia, Brazil and northern Argentina where water temperatures stay between 68 and 79° F. Like most fish that originate from South America, they are accustomed to soft, slightly acidic water. Aquarium water can be filtered through peat. Or water softener can be added to the water. Products such as Tetra`s Black Water Extract can be purchased at most fish specialty stores. This extract closely approximates the conditions of Amazon River water in your fish tank. 

Because they are a smaller variety of fish native to predatory waters, the black skirts are hiders by nature. They take readily to heavily planted environments. Black skirts are prone to swimming in the middle layer of your aquarium. 

Black skirt tetras are carnivorous in their natural habitat. But in captivity they are not picky when it comes to what they eat. Any tropical fish flakes will do just fine. Tetras are fin nippers by nature. They should not be kept with fish that have long, flowing fins such as Angelfish and Bettas, especially if you have a group of tetras. 

Breeding Black Skirts
They are egg laying fish. They tend to scatter their eggs to increase the likelihood of survival. It is difficult to distinguish the difference between males and females unless the female is carrying eggs. In the spawning cycle the female’s body tends to be a little rounder than the males. After spawning, adult fish should be removed to prevent them from eating their eggs. 

The eggs will hatch in about 24 hours. Black skirt fry are very tiny when they first hatch. The fry can be fed commercial liquid fry foods when newly hatched. When they get a little bigger their diet can be changed to powdered fry food or newly hatched brine shrimp. Powdered egg is an acceptable substitute.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-14</dc:date></item><item><title>About Malawi Blue Dolphin</title><link>http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?cur_lang=2&amp;what=article&amp;id=593</link><description>About Malawi Blue Dolphin
an article submitted by Exotic Aquariums

The Malawi blue dolphin or cyrtocara moorii is a member of the family Cichlidae. Cichlidae are commonly referred to as cichlids. 

The Malawi blue dolphin is just one on many species of cichlids native to Lake Malawi in Africa. Cichlids from Lake Malawi are collectively referred to as African cichlids. 

Blue dolphins are quite popular among freshwater aquarium keepers because of their brilliant blue hue. They, of course, are not related to dolphins. They were dubbed dolphins because of a nuchal hump on their head and their elongated snouts which gives their heads a vague resemblance to that of a dophin’s. This hump is present on both the males and the females and continues to grow as the fish does. 

The blue dolphin is a docile fish. They do not posses the aggressive instinct prevalent in many Africa cichlids. They make great additions to a community tank provided they are not mixed with more aggressive tank-mates. There are, however, a few considerations to take into account before deciding whether they are the right choice for your tank. 

Although the blue dolphin is classified as a medium sized cichlid, they will reach up to 8 inches in length. Experts recommend a medium tank size of 100 gallons for raising blue dolphins. Cichlids are shoaling fish. They travel in groups. It is not advisable to add just a single cichlid to a fish tank. In nature, the blue dolphin is found in shallow waters and sandy substrate. They instinctively burrow in the sand looking for food, although they don’t generally dig up plants. Sand is the substrate of choice when keeping blue dolphins. Last but not least, they are a timid creature. They need plenty of plants and rocks to hide in. 

Their native waters are slightly alkaline with a pH level of 7.5-8.0. Water temperature ranges between 72-78°F. Any species native to Lake Malawi will thrive under these conditions. Keep your aquarium with in these ranges and you can expect your blue dolphins to live for up to 10 years. 

In their natural habitat they eat small crustaceans that live in the sandy lake bottom. In fact, they often follow behind other fish species that dig in the sand and eat any invertebrates that are dug up. In captivity they can be fed cichlid pellets, flakes, and frozen foods. 

The male blue dolphin is slightly larger than the female. There color is often enhanced in the breeding cycle. 

The male Blue dolphin is territorial toward other members of its species. They have polygamist instincts and travel in harems. A male will mark out his territory and entertain the company of several females. It is recommended to keep at least three female to every male when raising blue dolphins. 

Blue dolphins are mouth brooders. The female will keep her eggs safely tucked away in her mouth to protect them after spawning. She will continue this practice after they hatch until they are large enough to better survive on their own. The fry will have yellowish-orange anal fin when hatched. This will disappear in a few months. Once the fry are released they can fed newly hatched brine shrimp or dry fry food. 

It will take roughly two years for the fry to reach sexual maturity and begin to spawn. At this point they will be 4-5 inches long. Juveniles are silver in color and don’t take on color until they start to mature.</description><dc:creator>admin</dc:creator><dc:date>2009-11-11</dc:date></item></channel></rss>